Travelling to the Green Island – Part 2

It is associated with Brian Boru, who was one of Ireland's most successful kings and is said to have been a fine harpist. All official symbols of the State have the harp bow on the left, but for commercial purposes, like company logos, the bow must be on the right. Near the post office stands The Spire of Dublin, a modern 120-metre-tall stainless steel monument built to mark the turn-of-the-century reconstruction of Connell Avenue, which has left people with mixed opinions.

Half a penny across the river

Back in the southern part of the city, we walked over the Ha'penny Bridge—that's how much the bridge fee was, which was quite expensive for many, so they crossed the river with boats. Some modern bridges, such as the elegant Becket Bridge, also cross the river.

Beer culture

A few streets away is the Temple Bar neighbourhood, full of pubs that are already packed in the morning. Nearby is also the Molly Malone monument; many people touch her breasts for good luck, so they are already quite "polished". You'll hear local music and DJs in the pubs. Dublin's Guinness beer, one of the world's most successful beer brands, can be ordered at any pub. The dry dark beer (stout) originates from the Arthur Guinness brewery on St. James's Gate. Its distinctive dark colour is due to the addition of roasted barley. On the island, you won’t find a Central European decorated beer mug with a handle. The Irish drink beer from ordinary upright glasses that hold one pint, which is a little over half a litre.

Nearly half a millennium of university

We continued along Grafton Street, lined with shops, and visited Trinity College—the College of the Holy Trinity, the oldest university in Ireland and one of the oldest in Europe. It was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I for Protestant students. Catholics had somewhat limited access even in the 20th century. Many tourists also visit it for the Book of Kells, which is kind of what the Freising Manuscript are for Slovenia. The Gospel collection is written on parchment and decorated with rich illustrations. The college is also home to the famous Long Room Library. It has a ship-like design with shelves on the sides adorned with busts of important scientists and academics from around the world. The hall is 14 metres high and 64 metres long.

From east to west

On the third day, we went to the west coast, which opens up to the vast Atlantic Ocean. Galway is one of the most densely populated areas in Ireland, attracting many tourists with its beautiful cityscape and lively events. In the city, which is considered to be the cultural capital, there is the church of St. Nicholas, which Christopher Columbus is said to have entered before setting sail for the New World. Galway was an important port for trade with Spain and Portugal. Columbus had a hard time recruiting sailors, as no one wanted to embark on a dangerous voyage into the unknown.

The roots of lynching and boycotts

Another interesting building, built in a more Romanesque style, is the Lynch Castle. It was home to James Lynch, mayor of Galway in the 15th century, and is the source of an old legend. One of their sailors was reportedly killed while visiting the Spanish, and Lynch's son was among the suspects. He was sentenced to death by "an eye for an eye" and hanged by his own father. This is also where the word "lynching" comes from, which means the immediate execution of a convicted person.

There's another term that comes from Ireland. In the 19th century, there lived Charles Boycott, a manager or tax collector who was hated by the farmers. They refused to pay taxes or harvest as a sign of rebellion, even though he then forced them to work with the army. After this incident, this form of resistance is commonly known as a "boycott".

200 metres above sea level

From Galway, the route took us along the coast to the Cliffs of Moher, or "Aillte and Mhothair". The incredible cliffs of shale and sandstone range from 100 to 200 metres above sea level. They are home to many species of flora and fauna, like the Atlantic puffin, the auk and the seal. Since 2005, the beautifully landscaped surroundings have been complemented by a modern visitor centre, hidden beneath the surface to protect it from the strong winds blowing in from the ocean. The Cliffs of Moher are not the highest on the island, but they are one of the main tourist attractions, with over a million visitors a year.

Some more history

Towards the evening, we had a quick visit to Limerick, a large Irish city situated on the Shannon Estuary. The town is home to the castle of Ivan Lackand, King of England, named after the post-war loss of possessions in France. Ivan Lackland is known for the publication of Magna Carta Libertatum, the Great List of Liberties that limits the power of the monarch and is considered one of the first steps towards democracy.

The mighty Bunratty Fortress

On the fourth day we visited the Bunratty Castle near Limerick. There were fortifications in the area before, and the current one was built in 1425, so it will be 600 years old next year. During the 16th and 17th centuries, the castle was an important strategic point and refuge for the Counts of O'Brien. It has been open to tourists since the 1960s, when it was renovated after the roof collapsed. The imposing six-storey fortress has a core with a cellar and two large halls, and four towers at the corners, where you can find everything from a kitchen to a chapel.

It was almost impossible to enter the fortress during its time. The narrow and steep spiral staircase was also designed in such a way that an attacker coming from below had considerable difficulty when it came to combat, as he had almost no space on the right side. Sometimes we mistakenly think that they had rich tapestries for thermal protection; in fact, they just covered up the ugly walls and the mould on them. Even though you were a king, you did not live comfortably in the first ever castles.

Traditional Irish architecture

In addition to Bunratty, there is a theme park with replicas of Irish buildings typical of the 19th century—farmhouses, a dispensary, a school, a post office, a pub, craftsmen's workshops, a church, and the original Bunratty House from 1804, which was then occupied by the Studdart family, who had previously lived in the castle. Irish country houses (both old and new) are not large, generally ground-floor or single-storey at most. Traditionally, they are covered with thatch or, later, with slate, which is a fairly durable and resilient roofing material. In new buildings, a stone roof is rarely found, as it is quite expensive.

Celtic gold and Irish mummies

Our last stop was back in Dublin, where we had the opportunity to visit the National Museum of Ireland, which has a large collection of Celtic gold. The oldest artificially made pieces of this precious metal are over 4,000 years old. We can see various bracelets, pendants and gold tin collars called lunules.

Another unusual item in the museum is the Irish mummies that were found in the peat bogs. Those unlucky people were slowly pulled in by the bog, which acts like living sand. The lack of oxygen in the peat has even led to good preservation of skin and hair in some. Peat has been part of Irish culture for a long time. It was formed by the deposition of material in lakes created by the retreat of glaciers. It was once widely used for firewood, as the island is not very rich in wood. Their authorities had to restrict such burning, as peat bogs were disappearing too quickly.

The streets with colourful doors

On a walk through Dublin, entire streets of three- to four-story brick buildings can be seen. During the years of British rule, the elite set up residences here because Ireland was affordable for them. These houses are very similar in shape, separated by colourful doors. Legend has it that after the death of Queen Victoria, the door was ordered to be black, but the Irish dressed it in bright colours as a sign of rebellion. There's also the explanation that the doors were painted different colours to make it easier for drunken men to find their homes.

In conclusion

Before leaving, we rushed to get another pint of Guinness at one of the pubs on Temple Bar. Some say it tastes completely different if you drink it in an Irish pub, since the best way to get to know a foreign culture is to visit it where it is at home.

Matic Štemberger