Camino de Santiago, a journey into the unknown

My pilgrimage begun in June, but before that already, it started at home, before departure. To be precise about a year earlier. It was in autumn a year before that I started selecting good hiking shoes, which can be your best friend or worst enemy while walking (so make sure the shoe fits). Before the pilgrimage I’ve really walked in my shoes, so they’d be tested and comfortable, not giving me further problems later on. Don’t limit yourself to hiking shoes only, there’s people using sneakers or even sandals along the way – whatever is the most comfortable for you. While resting it’s good to take the shoes off, give them some air and if they have removable soles, take them out in the evening so they can dry until morning.

 

The rest of the gear consists of a backpack. It should be light enough and a 25 litre backpack is big enough for all that is needed, as you really don’t want to be carrying things that are unnecessary. It should not weight over 10 kilos. Mine was 7 kilos after it was full of food and water. You also need to take care of the correct carrying – strap the backpack so your waist can carry the weight, not only your shoulders. 

 

No matter what season, you should have your raincoat, if possible large enough to fit over the backpack. The weather can be unpredictable as the journey takes you to several landscapes: you cross the Perinea Mountains and the path through Galicia can be really cold and rainy despite the summer. A hat and a warmer sweater must be a part of the things you have with you. It’s also good to have several pairs of socks with you (you’ll be sweating in your feet and be using the socks for a while). You should change them during walks, so the feet stay dry. This way you reduce the danger of getting blisters. Also, have a few patches with you anyway. I’ve also daily rubbed down my feet with alcohol, as I’ve cleaned them each evening before falling asleep with cotton soaked in alcohol, before putting on the foot lotion and my socks (I slept in my socks). Every time I’ve stopped walking I took of the shoes and put on open sandals. It was only near the end of the long walk that I’ve got a blister or two. There are many creeks and rivers along the way and you should use them to cool down your feet and also get the blood stream going. 

 

What to wear? The clothes should be functional and comfortable. It also depends when you’re going. A small towel and a few things for personal hygiene that you should restock along the way is always good – you’ll be passing some larger towns as well, so don’t worry about buying things as you go along. In the summer you should always make sure your head is covered and that you have sun cream with you. There are parts with nice wind, but don’t let that full you, the sun will burn you without feeling it until the evening, when you’ll be tossing and turning in your bed.

 

I had my sleeping bag with me, and it’s good if it’s small (especially if you’re going in summer months) as you’ll save a lot of room. The pilgrimage shelters (usually known as “albergue”) make sure you’re comfortable and there’s always a bed waiting for you – but with different equipment. There’s always a pillow and fresh bed sheet, but you won’t always get a blanket, so having a sleeping bag really is a good choice. 

 

 

My sister and I started walking in 2010 and were lucky – or in many cases unlucky – it was the sacred year. It was the year when the July 25th is marked as the patron saint’s day of Saint Jacob. This meant that we met with a mass of people, especially in the latter part of the pilgrimage, to spend the night outside, as there was no more room to be had. This is where the “armaflex” really came in handy. It seems it takes up a lot of space, but I wouldn’t want to be found on the road without it. Some even take hiking sticks along, to ease the walking and since there are many asphalt parts, they should have rubber ends. But most of the time you’ll walking the nice field roads and sideways, yet you have to cross the villages and towns. I didn’t take the sticks with me, it’s a matter of choice, and I never felt I needed them. 

 

A thing you might not consider taking with you, but will be really important, is a piece of string and some cloth pins. These come in really handy if things don’t dry up during the night (especially socks) so you can hang them on the backpack and dry as you walk along. 

 

There’s quite a good internet coverage along the way, I think it’s getting better covered each year, because we are all getting – even if we don’t want to admit it – more and more hooked on being online. In sleeping quarters there are also computers and there are many internet cafes and other access points in villages and towns you’ll pass. Still, it’s the experience of being without connection and left with your thoughts that you’ll find the most pleasurable part of the experience. 

 

Food and water supplies is not a problem. There are on the average 200.000 pilgrims a year and the number keeps rising, so the local shops do know how to take care of them. There’s drinking water available in wells and fountains, which are places in almost every settlement along the way.  You must, however, be careful of the distances, when you’re crossing empty landscape, as you should never run out of water in the heat and sun. You should always carry some water with you, just in case. You should also take good care about food. You’ll be walking for hours each day, so you should eat well too. You’ll see a Menú del Peregrino which is part of almost every in along the way, but I usually didn’t get that. It should be a menu suitable for a pilgrim, but as you don’t know what you’ll get until it’s served in front of you I preferred other dishes. The price is ok though, with 8-12€ per meal. Most sleeping facilities also have a kitchen, where you can prepare your own meal. If you use food supplements at home, you should take them along with you. There are several drug stores and pharmacies, but you never know if they’ll have what you’re used to. And there should always be an energy bar and something sweet at the bottom of the backpack – just in case. 

 

Talking about the journey itself, you have several possibilities and starting points to get the certificate. You need to walk at least 100 kilometres to Santiago de Compostela, or 200 kilometres by bicycle, or ride a horse (the last 200 kilometres are the ones that count). The most popular trail is - Camino Frances, leading to the north of Spain pass the province of Navarra, , La Rioja, Castillia y Leon and Galicia. The climate and the nature can change constantly, but that can make the journey more lively – as you’re going to move along slowly. The nature really is special and each season probably holds beauty to be seen. I can only speak of summer and there’s great views of wheat fields, vineyards and green pastures. With some luck you’ll also find some fruit to eat along the way.

 

Already mentioned pilgrimage shelters can be a great experience – or not. People who sleep lightly may have problems sharing a room with 10 other people. It’s rare that you’ll get a quiet night. There’ll be snoring and an occasional noise here and there and due to heat, I’ve also went outside every now and again… When at half past four in the morning I wanted to pack my things and push forth, there were many people sleeping. Some don’t even bother to be quiet, which causes some loud hisses, but usually you get to sleep on. I’d advise you, however, to have some ear plugs with you as they can really help you out.

 

I went to Spain in company, but don’t worry, you’ll never be alone. There will be interesting people you’ll meet along the way and exchange experience with them. You’ll be telling each other stories in the evening and get a glass or two of delicious local wine. 

 

Ever journey has its end and once you reach the Camino in Santiago de Compostela, located in the province of Galicia, this journey also ends. A beautiful city full of history and pilgrims, who’ve walked for many a miles leave a special mark on the destination. I’d love to undertake the pilgrimage one more time and I hope I’ll make it. It’s not so much financially demanding, as it is time consuming. You need a lot of time and if you can manage to get enough of it, you should do it. You will be really grateful in the end!