This year I wanted adrenalin and exploration for my holidays and since the first plan couldn’t be realized, I’ve decided to have a rest on Corsica. My plan B was simply to enjoy every moment I’ve got. And so it was that I came back absolutely thrilled. I went on trekking with TA Balkanika, along with other 21 participants from all over Slovenia.
Corsica is a Mediterranean island 183 kilometres long and 83 kilometres wide with about 280.000 inhabitants, but the number is dropping. Mostly, people live in the coastal area near the two larger cities Ajaccia and Bastie. Except for the town of Corte, the inside of the island is rarely inhabited.
The island is divided in 4 zones: Bastia and north, Ajaccio and west, Boncafion and south, and Corte and the inlands. Each part is unique, one of a kind, special and magical, so it will charm any visitor in its own right.
Bastia and the north
It was the third Monday in April that we left from Maribor and reached the harbour of Livorno, from where we took a 4 hour boat ride to the Corsican port Bastia. Upon arrival we still had a 4 hour drive ahead of us to reach the western part, to the town of Calvi and we drove on the new N197 road, as the old road would take additional 2 hours.
The island has 46 lakes and some transversal mountaineer paths (GR20 – 200km long in 15 parts – from sea to sea) and ways. There are over 100 peaks with heights over 2000 metres. It’s really full of mountains and we often got a view of the tallest peak – the 2706m tall Monte Cinto, covered in snow, in the glow of the setting sun.
The first evening we spent on the island, we got a great chance to catch the sun set. It’s was our only one and therefore so much more magnificent.
Next morning promised us a beautiful sunny day and we made the round trip to the 703 m tall Capu di a Veta, raising above the town of Calvi. You can easily recognise the peak by its wooden cross on top and the great view of the deep blue sea from it. Also, you can see the inland mountains, still covered in snow.
Calvi is on the northern part of Corsica and is proud to offer the Genois citadel from the 15th century, dominating the view above the harbour and offering a great lookout point from the defensive wall. In the very heart of it stands the Palais des Gouverneurs Genois, where the governors of Genois lived since the 16th century. Today it’s the fortress of the French foreign legion. Within the defensive walls there is also the cathedral of St-Jean-Baptiste, that holds the ivory cross – Christ des Miracles which is said to have been owned by the virgin of rosary. A legend also claims that this is where Cristopher Columbus was born.
Ajaccio and the west coast, with a trip to the south
Next was the day of tourist attraction, with 140 kilomtres spent on the relation between Calvi and Propriano on the wild western coast and adrenalin ride on narrow road. We saw many attractions of this part of the island.
Stopping in the town of Porto, we went to see the well preserved defensive tower of Genois and headed forth to the place called Piana, where we walked on the Calanques de Piana. It’s a place full of granite piles and rocks, which change their colour during the day (from golden to pink and bright red) and if we involve a bit of imagination, we get to see lions, elephants, fortresses, hearts, dog heads ad many more.
We explored the Corsican capital Ajaccio by a tourist train – Petit Train, which took us from Napoleon’s cave to the heart of the city (and the birth house of Napoleon), where we walked along the streets. We spent the night in the place called Propriano, which gets really crowded in the summer as it has beautiful beaches!
We also went to the 1217m tall peak of Uomo di Cagna. The base for the ascent was the village of Giannuccio, which surrounded only by peaks and from where you can only see serpentine roads. Our group nicknamed the peak “rock on rock” as it’s really a structure of two rocks, places one on top of the other.
After this conquer we visited one of the oldest Corsican towns - Bonifacio. The tour of the old centre »haute ville«, which is the heart of the city and from where you get to see beautiful views of the coast with the famous landmarks of Grain de Sable – the lonely rock named a grain of sand; and the lighthouse Capo Pertusato – the southernmost part of the island.
Corte and the inlands
Moving from the west coast towards inland was a very touristic trip. We stopped at Porto Vecchio to see the old town centre, located above the marina. Then we went to see the mountain lodge Refuge in a place called I'Ospedale and climbed the peak of Vacca Morte (the dead cow). It was a short way, but well worth it due to the magnificent view from the top.
We spent the night in the geographical heart of Corsica in the town of Corte, the only university town on the island. We concluded the trekking in the place of Calacuccia Lozzi (the many curves of the road made it interesting and full of adrenalin – it runs on the canyon of Golo). From there we continued on foot by the marked path to the Refuge di I'Ercu under Monte Cinto (1650 m). The peak was out of our reach, but we still enjoyed the embrace of the island mountains, surrounding us and bathing in the sun.
Returning home
On the day of our departure, the day was grey, but that didn’t spoil our mood or diminish out impressions we got during the week around the island. Memories remain, photos will bring them back to life again and again, and I’m sure this first trip to Corsica will not be my last one. The natural beauty of the island has fascinated me and at the same time I realized the first visit is just a puzzle in the mosaic I can keep adding on to as there are many more interesting destinations the island has to offer me, and many more goals.
