Rescue passengers from Libya

Nothing pointed to such a hardship, even one day prior to departure, there were no information about not going to Libya, no suggestions not to go. There were some suggestions to avoid the border regions, but nobody suspected the scenario of some other Islamic countries could happen here, with Gadafi’s régime in Libya, the most developed country in northern Africa.

As we drop off our luggage, we go to the green square, which is full of Libyans, supporting the regime. Some of them more frantic and others quite calm: playing the drums, dancing, throwing firecrackers – all armed with green scarves and pictures of Gadafi. We mix with the locals, always on their side – no matter what that is at the moment. It was a peaceful and interesting overture into the next few days of our stay.

Next day, we’re on our way to Ghadames, but already skip a visit to a Berberian village, where first anti-Gadafi protests, in the larger area of Tripoli, started. Doesn’t matter, I think, Ghadames shall be fascinating enough for every tourist. We come to the town, where we are met by demonstrators against the government. The police is confused. I want to take a nightly stroll around the city, but the police do not allow it. I manage to talk them into it, but they were nervous and completely lost. Upon my return I see a burning trash container, shortly afterward a police station in flames. But our policeman just calmly watches what’s happening. The sounds of a riot overwhelm the oasis. Next day the police locked us into our hotel and our return to Tripoli becomes risky and questionable. The Berbers are blocking roads, burning cars, demanding bails... never mind, we’re on our way to Sebha anyway – the southern desert capital, where it’s safe.

On the 850 km long way towards Sebha there are only 4 oases. Based on our information, the road is normal, nothing is happening and there are hardly any people here. Who would be attacking whom here, I think to myself. But when we had to refuel, trouble began. A street gang was armed and robbing the gas station. They shoot in the air three times to warn us, to keep the distance. Great, I think, how to go on without fuel? There’s no other choice, while the gangs plunder, we go and steal gasoline – we got it and it was free. Time for us to continue. Some 100 km further is the next oasis, with the only restaurant on the way. We’ll stop and dine here. Or we would if there were any signs of life here, upon our arrival. We were told the employees of the restaurants ran and left everything. Damn, we’re hungry. The nearer we get to Sebha, more police and military there is. We got a real firework welcome, for most people in Sebha support Gadafi with loud machinegun raffles. The night gets even more lively when Gadafi calls for protesters to surrender and gives them a two day ultimatum.

After a few days of travel the picture of Libya changed completely. A part of the army and policed refused to take orders from the government and the air space over Bengasi was closed. Hundreds of fatalities in the country, the government palace on fire in the capital, the international airport full of foreigners trying to leave the country. Gangs start dominating streets...  we are safe, closed up in a hotel in Sebha, not knowing what’s happening. We’re staring in the TV, craving news, knowing we have to get back home ASAP.

That evening we start fighting over last tickets for a plane tomorrow – I get tickets for a flight to Tripoli and then with Italian airline to Rome – but in the morning, there’s no plane for Tripoli. I dare not think what this is doing to the budget of the agency, or how this has affected the travelers. We stay at the airport the whole day, trying to find a solution. All passengers are involved, stretching their connections and friends, asking the Slovene foreign ministry for help. we got word the French are sending a government airplane to pick up their citizens. They are first to leave and have priority. We start fighting for the places on the waiting list. Belgians get ahead of us, for their government intervened and the Austrian embassy was able to place their citizens in front of us as well. We are trying every possible connection to get somebody back home to force an intervention on our behalf. The cell phones barely work, the connection goes blank several times, there are no phones, no internet, no info at the airport... there are even no employees. It was a madhouse of people fighting to escape safe and sound. In the end, only the French were able to board the plane, the rest of us stayed there, defeated and downhearted. The silence was making the statement on our behalf. We knew Libya is deep in a war with thousands of casualties... We spend a night at a camp site outside the town – no place safer. During the night, there are shots in Sebha again.

We begin a new day with new hopes. Our government was able to make contact with Italian and an Italian military transporter is due to pick us up today. How many Italians are ahead of us on the waiting list, and just how many passengers can get on the transport – and how many tourists will be left behind – nobody even dared to guess. we get in touch with Italians, who have some more info, and again a fight for seats begins, with lobbying and corruption – but we’re saved. The transport took 100 passengers and flew towards Rome. The Libyan adventure has ended. Sad and relieved at the same time, we went our own separate ways once we reached Ljubljana. We will not forget this was, the evacuation, the struggle for seats and the innocent killed Libyans, losing their family and homes. It was a nightmare without comparison, one I wish I’ll never have to live through again.