Fiji, paradise Island of cruel history

I don’t travel like that. I cannot imagine not having my backpack and organizing my daily agenda as I go along. No information ahead, as to where I’m going meant my backpacking started off a bit confused. Were there not so many pushy offers and if we hadn’t chosen the best among the operators at that point, I really don’t know how the travel would go on. I was tempted by one of the many offers, by the so called Fiji experience agency that offered organizes trips around the islands by bus or van and organized adrenalin sports, trekking and such – everything a group can wish for. Our group was made up of travellers from all over the globe, which was a new chance for us, we made new friendships.

First settlers came to the islands some 3500 years ago from the surrounding islands and some think they are Malaysians. Europeans arrived only in the early 19th century, only 200 years ago. They described the natives as friendly, but have noticed their cruelty. Some hundred years ago the islands were still featuring cannibalism. Despite the shock of cannibalism the Europeans stayed due to natural resources. At the time the last of cannibals lived and the locals say, with his people, he ate around 1000 victims. The natives are not proud of their past, so you can rarely see something to remember it by. At the main road there is an abandoned tomb of the last cannibal. One of the things you do get to see are the cannibal forks at the phone booths. These were used to rip the flesh off victims and eat it. They also buried people alive. The natives do not usually speak of this, but if a foreigner asks they might open up a bit and tell you something more.

The island represent paradise beaches for most of the people, beautiful resorts, enjoying cocktails and generally relaxing in the sun. This is the main reason why most people go there – to enjoy the sandy beaches – and spend a vacation there. Usually these resorts offer special offers, which are usually paid for way too much. But the island is so much more. You’ll get to explore it, especially if you organize your trips along the way, which is the real challenge to any backpacker. Traveling on your own is really easy, safe and offers many adventures for a really small price. At airports you’ll already get the offers for several ways of getting around. You can rent a car or a van (with other people), or even a bus with a driver and a guide, and your adventure can begin. What to see and do is usually up to you.

 

Not many people think you can find so many adrenalin filled sports in such a relaxed looking country. For all who enjoy such a thing, there is an organized trip around the islands and the program includes many activities. First off they offer sports that are not really known outside the islands, and the natives are quite protective of them. Would you think to look for dune surfing on the paradise islands of Fiji? Steep dunes at the beaches are perfect for it and many visitors come to do just that. We were speeding down the dunes on surfs similar to those for the waves and it really was a unique experience. 

The inland of the largest of the islands is a regular jungle you can see in movies. The natives use the jungle for trekking. Getting through the thick green growth full of birds and their unusual sounds, crossing the rivers and swamps, bathing under the waterfalls… it’s just the thing for fun loving adventurers. Even though such a trek can become real life night mare I still decided to go along. After the start the natives brought us to a very uncertain situation. They took us to a dense forest without any previous instructions. They headed off barefoot and we could – well, follow. It was hard to imagine such a difficult journey will be a pleasant adventure in the end, but it turned out to be just that. We were crossing rivers, swamps, and often didn’t even see where to step. We were just sinking into the mud and tall grass. All the time we were listening to the various birds, but haven’t seen a single one, nor any other animal for that matter. But the biggest surprise was the bathing in the middle of the jungle under the waterfalls of a wild river. I had huge problems getting my sneakers dry.

 

Apart from adrenalin they also promote other, more familiar sports: from surfing to diving and horse-riding along the shore. Everybody who loves a healthy life style will find something to enjoy.

The diving fans will really find the islands a paradise. Most people visiting the islands usually think of coral reefs, but they quickly get a different idea, when they see what is on offer. The natives are really proud of their well organized shark diving trips. As a lover of the underwater world I soon discovered this is my priority on this trip. Naturally, you need a diver’s license for such a dive, but if you have a week, you can get it there as well. Diving with sharks has become so famous, you need to have real luck to get your turn. There are crowds of people waiting, but I got lucky to get my time slot to start this extraordinary adventure. Just getting to the spot of the dive was an experience of its own. The catamaran took us to open sea with great speed, over or even under huge waves. At a precise point we stopped and after short instructions started the first dive. Diving with sharks Is strictly protected by the organizers, with as many trainers as guests. The sharks are used to people visiting, as they get fed regularly and they are – which is most important – not hungry. We dove two times, first at 30 and second at 25 meters. The guides show you where to kneel down or even lay down when larger sharks arrive. Next the sharks start to gather as they start smelling food – it’s the dead fish one, just one, of the divers has and distributes to the sharks. It was amazing to see the 3 meter long shark in front of us. The many grey sharks were amazing, but we were extremely lucky to see the tiger shark. In a moment out of a mass of sharks a tiger shark appeared and was left all alone, as the others escaped. It’s been proven, a tiger shark will attack and eat other sharks as well. All you diving fans simply must experience the diving with sharks. It is generally also really safe and one of the guides also said, he can’t remember a case of a shark eating a diver.

 

Because many people from India are living on Fiji, you really can’t get to feel the native touch of the towns. You can still find it at the countryside though, especially in smaller villages. The natives are open to visitors and except them also to their elementary schools. It’s a great experience for the children and the visitor alike. It is good through to bring some school equipment with you, for the kids. The class will be happy to sing or dance some traditional ritual song for you, but they also expect something in return for the favour. It can be enough to tell them something about yourself and the land you come from. Our group came from all over the world and we even sang a song to the children and felt more embarrassed as the class did. The schools do look quite bad, as many don’t even have windows and seem quite abandoned. The fence in front of the school is usually made of empty plastic bottles. In villages there is a tradition of drinking coffee, but unlike the coffee we’re used to, this is not coffee, but a drink made from the roots of a plant named yagona. This is a true ritual and you need to follow a clear set of rules, which include the clothing to be over the knees. Both men and women ned to put a dress on, but it’s enough to simply tie the »sulu« – their traditional skirt – around the waist. There are rules to follow for drinking coffee too, but first, while it is cooked, you need to pray. The first to have a drink is the master and the rest follow after him. Coffee is always drunk from the coco-cups. There is always somebody, who’s in charge of stirring the ground roots in water and distribute the drink. It is this person that brings a full cup of the brew to all of the guests (everybody sits on the floor). Before you can take the drink you need to clap and say bula. You cannot drink before that. And what does bula mean? It’s something like a greeting, good wishes, bon appetite… We drank coffee almost every night as the natives really have fun through this ritual. But the best coffee drinking experience was in the culture hall. It was there that the natives showed us their traditional dances and sang us songs… and in the end we had to dance with them. 

 

Fiji is a land that gives you the feeling the time has stopped in its tracks. There is no stress here, no rush, just a relaxed and smiling life. The people of undeveloped countries usually yearn to go to Europe or America, but Fiji has a much better life to offer than the civilized west has.