It’s also the city with the oldest grape wine in the world – THE OLD WINE and a very long vinery tradition, as well as the University City with some of the best faculties in the country.
But very few people know the surroundings of Maribor, which are sometimes unknown even to the locals – but are in fact unspoiled gems, waiting for you to visit them.
This time we invite you to travel to the east of the city, along the river Drava.
A great starting location, that will serve as the base for your exploration of the city or its surroundings is the Hostel UNI, located in the centre of the city .
Now you have the option to explore with a bike or a car (I’d suggest a rental with which you could explore the countryside for a couple of days). There are local buses, but they are, unfortunately, not the best way to travel about in Slovenia, since harder to reach places have maybe three scheduled bus connections (morning, mid day and evening), some not even that and the railroad goes north, west and south of Maribor, so it doesn’t cover our suggested exploration of the eastward side.
And what can you see here?
Already from the open terrace of the city’s biggest shopping mall “Europark” you’ll see the church of St. Mary on the hill, standing proud over the left bank of the river Drava, a clear landmark you’ve entered the region of Slovenske gorice. From the village of Malečnik, which lies on the local road connecting Maribor and Ptuj via Spodnji Duplek and Vurberk. In the village is one of the offspring of the “Old Wine” and from there you can start the not to demanding hike up to the church, visiting the chapels representing Jesus’ walk while carrying the cross. On top, around the church, is a cemetery, and outside it is a statue of St. Nepomuk greeting you.
The view from there is absolutely marvelous. You’ll have a great view of Pohorje, the field fo Drava, the river canal and old river stream, the hills of Slovenske gorice and the Haloze hills on the boarder between Slovenia… and many more.
Next you continue toward Zgornji Duplek, where you can enjoy one of the most popular pool/snooker clubs in the region – the Splavar, with its bar and a restaurant, if you just need to fuel up your body, or simply enjoy a friendly indoor game with the cue.
Continuing your way to Spodnji Duplek, you’ll see many signs pointing toward your right, inviting you to visit the natural park Drava.
The river really is beautiful, but since it’s a protected area, with many species of birds, there are no real roads leading into it, so you’ll have to follow some of the footpaths and rough it – but I guess no nature lover will regret it.
In Spodnji Duplek I’d strongly recommend that you take a little detour towards Zgornja Korena. It’s a small village on top of the hill just north of Spodnji Duplek, but the view of the hills, the church park and even the crypt at the cemetery are worth the bother. Especially the church park is worth a visit, for it has an exhibition of old farming tools, old funeral herse and bishop’s carriage, old clock tower mechanism and an offspring of the “Old Wine.” If you wish, you can also follow the school learning trail of dr. Joža Glonar, a 2 hour walk around the woods in the area, explaining the local flora and fauna.
And then to the highlight of the short trip – toward castle Vurberk
While still on the road, you can not imagine, what awaits you. The forest covers the view, so you’ll only see the signs and a small market on the right – with the cemetery on the left. It’s there you should follow the signs and go up the hill toward the castle.
Going up the hill you’ll see many benches with numbers on them – these are the points of healing bio energy. A local society set them up for the suiting effect the energy has on people. Each bench should help with a different problem people in modern society face.
I really can’t say if it’s true or not, if this energy is present and if it works – much less explain how or why it should be effective – but one thing is for sure: if you’re stressed out and come to this place to enjoy the fresh clean air, if you take the time to calm down and cool off on these benches listening to the sounds of the forest – the stress will pass!
Making your way further up the path and stairs, you’ll come to the church. Today this is the church of Mary’s Assumption, but it used to be the castle chapel, dating back to 13th century. During one of their campaigns toward Vienna, the Turkish army demolished it – but the people rebuilt it on the very same spot.
Enjoy a walk around it, see the engraved stones on its walls and maybe even try to contact the preacher (it’s not unusual to find him in the neighboring house, for it is a seat of his parish), who’ll be more than happy to show you around and explain the rich history of the church and the castle.
On the other side of the road use to be the castle cellars, but are now turned into a beautiful restaurant, where you can enjoy some excellent delicacies in the appropriate atmosphere.
But still further up the hill – you haven’t reached the top yet – are the remains of the castle. While climbing the stairs toward it, you’ll get to see one of the offspring of the “Old Wine” from Lent in Maribor.
The southern wall with the castle main gate is still intact and through it you’ll come to what used to be the castle’s court. Today this area was transformed into an open stage, with an auditorium covering the remains the largest building of the castle.
On average day you’ll simply love the great view of the area, realizing why defensive castles were built on locations such as this. From here you really could see the enemy army coming toward you and could defend your self even from the superior numbers of enemy forces.
But if you plan your trip carefully, you’ll arrive there during the medieval festival, with knights and ladies, archers and jesters, craftsmen and animal tamers… showing the life of days long gone.
The medieval festival is held every year some time late in the month of May or early in June – depending on the weather.
There are, however, also other events taking place at the castle grounds – such as music concerts with Slovenian folk songs and popular music and theatre plays, but due to it being an open air stage, these take place during the warm months from late spring, to early autumn.
From Vurberk you can continue to the oldest town in Slovenia – Ptuj, but I suggest you to return to Maribor, to explore a different the very next day, the one I’ll tell you about next time.
Borut Jurišič
