This is a new post in our series on hiking trails, where we'll be introducing a special route in the northwest of Slovenia, specifically in the town of Šentilj. This well-kept trail takes hikers through vineyards, meadows, fields, and forests, and all the way to the banks of the Mura River.
The town of Šentilj is located in the northwestern part of central Slovenske gorice near the border with Austria. The settlement grew a lot in the 19th century, especially with the building of the Vienna–Trieste railway, which was used by notable figures of the time, like Emperor Franz Joseph I and Josip Broz Tito, the former president of Yugoslavia. Today, the town consists of many scattered settlements that stretch across Slovenske gorice, right along the border with Austria.
In the late 1990s, several hiking trails were created in Šentilj, such as the Celtic trail (Keltska pot), The Border Panorama Trail (Obmejna panoramska pot) and The Trail of Healing Springs (Pot zdravilnih vrelcev). These paths also crossed each other. Thanks to Mr. Srečko Najmajster's idea, it was also suggested to link sections of these trails into a circular path. So, the Paloma Alpine Society created a longer, 56 km long circular hiking trail around the municipality. The hiking trail, which was officially opened on 20 October 2001, is well-marked with the so-called Knafelč red and white way markings, direction signs, and check-in points. A stamp collection guide, created by Srečko Najmajster, is also freely available, where hikers can collect checkpoints as they complete the trail.
The Šentilj hiking trail begins at the Belna guest house in the centre of Šentilj, which is also the first checkpoint. From there, the trail goes in a loop past 12 checkpoints and ends back at the starting point. For those interested in a bit more history, culture, and natural heritage, there's plenty to discover along the way, as the trail reveals many hidden gems. We'll describe some of the most interesting things below, but to learn more, it's best if you walk the trail yourself.
The fact that this area was first settled by the Illyrians and later by the Celts is clear from archaeological finds like coins and pottery, as well as the remains of barrow cemeteries in the Ceršak forest called "Bold", which you walk through at the beginning of the trail. Along the trail, you'll find information boards as well as boundary stones marking the border with Austria.
Rajšp's barrow has a slightly different, and somewhat mysterious history. It's said that a castle once stood here, haunted by a ghost, while another story claims that the mighty leader Attila, who led the Huns across Europe, was buried here. We came across the barrow a bit later on the trail.
After a short, steep section of the trail leading up from the Mura River, just before the village of Ceršak, we were greeted by a mighty border outpost – a guard station from the time of the Slovenian War of Independence. It has important historical significance from the war, as it's said that special forces were flown in by helicopter to strengthen the local military units for defence as part of a diversionary operation. Today, the building is abandoned, but its surroundings and courtyard are being revived as a space for events and gatherings in the local community of Ceršak.
One of the settlements on the way is Sladki Vrh, famous for its paper factory or the production of cardboard and wood, also known as Paloma. Production began in 1873 and continues to this day. This production was made possible by the flow of the Mura River and the surrounding vast forests. A few years later, they expanded production by opening factories in Ceršak, Prevalje, and Mislinja. The production left a big mark on the community, as it led to the building of flats and other areas that settled workers and their families closer to the "mother factory" of the region.
In Sladki Vrh, alongside the paper and cardboard factory, you can't miss Brod na Muri, which serves as an international border crossing, especially for those heading into Austria by bike. It has stood here for over 150 years and remains a unique historical landmark of the area. At one point, there were 94 such cable ferries, as all traffic across the Mura River used to cross through them.
Today, the cable ferry is mainly used for tourism, but in the past, it was used to transport goods and agricultural products across the Mura River. Near the ferry, there is also a park with a lime tree avenue and a memorial plaque, which was planted after Tito's death.
The Church of Our Lady of the Snows in Zgornja Velka was built at the end of the 18th century in the Baroque style. It's right in the heart of the village, offering lovely views all around. In 2009, it was declared a pilgrimage church. In front of the church, in the square, stands a large wooden well, which is also a well-known symbol of the Šentilj Trail. It serves as a reminder of the days when people used to gather drinking water from communal wells.
On our way back from the forest near the Austrian border, we saw the Church of St. Elijah in the distance, marking the end of the hiking trail and the return to the starting point.
The church stands in the old part of Šentilj and is named after St. Elijah with the hind, who, according to legend, appeared to a local shepherd in the thicket. It was first mentioned in 1329, then looted by the Turks in the 16th century, and completely restored in the early 19th century.
You can definitely walk the Šentilj Trail in a day, or even run it, but it's worth taking an extra day or two to really get to know the route, which is exactly what we did. We ended our first day of hiking with a sunset in front of the Church of Our Lady of the Snows, about halfway along the trail. Every new discovery along the way kept us going, eager to explore more of the beautiful countryside and its unique charm.
The trail offers plenty of wide, scenic views, spots to stop for a refreshment, friendly locals, and the sounds of country life. You'll also find yourself going up and down along the river, through fields and meadows, and past picturesque villages in the rolling hills of northeastern Slovenia.