Probably you cannot describe the tall mountains of Kamniško Savinjske Alpe nicer. The mountains where times seems to have stopped a few decades ago, where Kekec will come from behind herder’s cabin, whistling his song and where you must mind your step from June to September not to step into dung. But even that is charming on Velika Planina.
Many trails lead to Velika Planina. We arrived from Styrian side (from Ljubljana you pass Kamnik). At exit Šentrupert we turned from the motorway and followed the Savinja river past Mozirje to the upper part of the Savinjska Valley. At the crossing we turned towards Gornji Grad. After some kilometres between trees we saw a settlement with a featured black roof and baroque steeple that was the main church of Ljubljana’s bishop. Passing the church of Saint Mohor and Fortunata we started driving uphill, first on asphalt road, which later became macadam. Our ears got clogged one by one in few minutes and we sat houses below us, small as ants, although we saw them in their full size just minutes ago. After the pass of Črnivec we turned right towards Kranjski Rak and parked at the inn, with some other cars parked in front of it, so we decided this is where the walking tour starts. The comfortable – once white – all stars were replaced by hiking boots with warm and tall stockings. Boyes helped me set the hiking sticks to my size and we went off. After two bents of the macadam road we headed into the forest. The boys were up front and the breathless girls in the back. After few minutes’ walk we disinfected our warmed up bodies with some of grandpa’s bluberies and ate our first Milka chocolate before pressing on.
In good company, with some short breaks to quench thirst, we reached the end. Tall pine trees were replaced by grass and the narrow path became an endless pasture of the flat mountain top all around. Here beauty gets its meaning. We were already fascinated with Mala Planina, with first herder’s huts and fresh mountain air in unspoiled nature. After some more steps we saw the real fairy charm of the mountain. Everywhere you look only herder’s huts, covered fully with wood-cut coverings (named šinkln) and you can’t count them with the fingers of the one hand as there are many. The former herder’s cabins are traditional mountain architecture and keep Velika Planina as one of the few such settlements within Europe. Between many huts there’s also another attractions – “Preskarjeva bajta,” on the edge of the settlement. There’s a sign pointing it out and in front of it is a woman in traditional wear, with a long apron and a scarf on the head. She greets you nicely and invites you to the cabin that is open daily (from June until September) between 10 am and 4 pm. The hut is a museum, where you can see their clothing, trniče*, tools and other things used in their work, but you also get to see how cheese was made at the open fire. Thus you get to see what life was like in the past. The hut stands at the original site, although it was burned down in 1945, just before the end of the war, but was remade in the original image. Thus it is the only cabin that stands out with its small size and humility. Slightly elevated is the chapel of Mary in the Snow. A small wooden/stone church covered with šinkln and surrounded by wooden fence has mystical charm, for which many couple decided to have their wedding here. The chapel was here before the war already, but was also burned down by Nazis, yet the initiative of herders rebuilt it in 1988. During walks on the green mountain at approximate elevation of between 1500 and 1600 meters above sea level, among huts, we met many other hikers, who decided to spend the Saturday morning at Velika Planina. We also met some local people, who told us they’ve bought the houses a few years ago and are spending their weekends here. Next we headed for the western part of the mountain, to the guest house Green edge. »WOW!« In sunny weather you get to see the Kamniško-Savinske Alpe from here and you shouldn’t miss such a view. Experienced mountaineers will easily recognise the peaks of Grintovec, Skuta, Ojstrica, Planjava and Turska gora.
You’ll find a few lodges on the mountain, where you can regain your strength. I suggest a traditional herder’s lunch – sour milk and polenta, as it should be. They can also offer other dairy goodness (if you love dairy products, try their homemade cheese), roles (finger-licking good), stews (jota, ričet, golaž), and they also prepare sausages with sauerkraut, kranjska klobasa, or buckweath polenta with ocvirki. And don’t forget something sweet with apple strudel.
We had traditional lunch and – a bit tired, but thrilled with the beauty of Slovenia – headed back towards Mala Planina, and from there further down to the car. We then made our way pass Črnivec and Gornji Grad towards Ljubno, here we settled in at the
Gostilna Pevc & Hostel Ljubno ob Savinji, where we just went to bed.
*Trniči are typical hard cheeses typically pear shaped prepared in Kamniško-Savinjske Alpe in the area of Velika Planina, Mala Planina and Gojška Planina. They’re made of skimmed cottage cheese, salt and cream. They are decorated with ornaments. For a single trnič you need 2 litres of milk. You can use young trnič to shred on risotto, porridge or pasta. It’s a great addition to meat and fish dishes. You can also slice it and add honey and pepper, or dip it into pumpkin seed or olive oil.
