Riga, the Heart of the Baltics

I've wanted to visit the Baltic countries for a long time. At the end of July, we set off for Latvia and Estonia. We flew to Riga with airBaltic from Ljubljana. Before landing, we were already looking out the window at the green forests and scenery. The comfy two-hour flight in a modern plane passed quite quickly. We took a bus to the city centre. We bought our tickets at a kiosk by the airport—1.50 euros per person for a 90-minute ride. I've never seen such a low price for getting from the airport to the city before!

Amazing views of the city

Riga, the capital of Latvia, is the geographical centre of the Baltic Sea. The old town, which is protected by UNESCO, is charming and easy to explore. We spent four days in Riga, and one day we took a trip to Jurmala. We had plenty of time to really get to know the city and explore all its streets, squares, and hidden corners. In the square in front of the town hall, the facade of the House of the Blackheads, caught our attention first. It is a Renaissance palace that once served as a hub for merchant guilds. Today, it's also one of the most famous buildings in Riga, and has a museum inside. In the square, there's also a model of the first decorated Christmas tree in the world, a statue of the city's protector Roland, which symbolizes justice, and a big sign that says Riga, which attracts passers-by to take a photo with it. Nearby, there's the Tourist Information Centre (TIC), and a short distance away is St. Peter's Church. The bell tower offers one of the most beautiful views of the city skyline.

The market – a gathering spot for the locals

We carried on exploring past the Protestant Cathedral, the biggest medieval church in the Baltics, known for its amazing organ and stunning interior. Nearby, there's a bronze statue of the Town Musicians of Bremen. We passed the Rock Cafe and headed to the synagogue, and from there on to the market. The market is huge, with five big halls, and outside, there's a covered section selling fruit, vegetables, flowers, and kiosks with everything from clothes and spices to pet food. Each hall sells specific products, like cheese and dairy, meat, and fish. The market is massive, so we spent quite some time there. We ran into many locals who gather here to hang out and shop, no matter what day of the week it is.

A city named after a river

We walked along the canal and the city park past the Opera House to Livu Square (Līvu laukums). It's definitely one of the most colourful spots in the city. The houses with their varied facades and decorations invite you into their restaurants and cafés. In the past, the river Riga flowed here, and that's where the city got its name from. Later on, the river was drained and filled in, but the name stuck around. Now, there's a paved path where the river used to flow. We turned down the streets and passed a house with a yellow facade and lots of Art Nouveau details, with two cats on the roof on the Cat House, and arrived at the famous buildings called the Three Brothers. These are three houses from different historical periods: one from the 15th century, one from the 17th century, and one from the 18th century. These are the oldest medieval houses in the city, and they show how architecture changed over the years. From there, we walked past the parliament to the Swedish Gates, which are the last remaining city gates from the old defence system.

When the street becomes an open-air museum

We walked past the Freedom Monument (Brīvības piemineklis), which is 43 metres tall and one of the tallest in Europe, before heading into the newer part of the city. In this part, there's an impressive Orthodox church and a beautiful building that houses the national art museum. We went a bit further north to Alberta Street (Alberta iela). When we arrived at this beautiful street, our reactions were: ''Wow!'' ''Look at that!'' and ''Incredible!'' Alberta Street is like an open-air museum, with every house along the street built in the Art Nouveau style, filled with mosaics, unusual shapes, decorations, and soft pastel shades.

First-hand experience

In Riga, we learned what the saying "there's always sunshine after rain" really means. As we were walking around the city, we first got hit by a few light raindrops, and just a few seconds later, it started pouring like crazy. After about ten minutes, the sun came out, the streets came back to life, and the only thing that reminded us of the heavy rain from a moment ago was the wet pavement. We realised we couldn't trust the weather forecasts because the weather was changing so quickly. In the summer months, sunglasses, an umbrella, and a lightweight jacket (or a long-sleeved item of clothing) are essential items to have in your backpack.

The city is small and charming, and we quickly mastered it. But another day, we decided to see the city through a walking tour, which turned out to be a great experience. A young local woman took us on a two-hour tour of the city, shared her perspective and gave us a glimpse into life in her country. The tour was free, but voluntary contributions were welcome. We headed to one of the Caffeine cafés in Latvia, where they have a lovely space and excellent coffee with a great selection. We also tried the Cruffins dessert, which was absolutely delicious, even though it was quite filling. Along with that, we sampled some of their beers, including Zoltners, Mežpils, and Tērvete. The lunch that we had at the Burzma restaurant on the fourth floor of a department store was a real treat, as well. It's like a market with various vendors, and we chose bao buns for lunch, which we enjoyed on the outdoor terrace with a view. One day, we went to the Balzambārs restaurant, which had a great selection of traditional Latvian dishes. We ordered their handmade dumplings with cottage cheese and potatoes with different fillings. They serve them with a mix of fresh herbs (with a strong aroma of fresh dill), sour cream, and vinegar. We were absolutely amazed!

A trip to the Baltic Sea

One day, we decided to take a trip. We took the train to Jurmala, a popular seaside resort, especially among locals. For the tickets, we paid 2 euros per person in one direction. After about a half an hour drive, we arrived in Jūrmala, strolled through the town filled with wooden villas from the late 19th century built in the Art Nouveau style, had a drink with a wonderful view of the Baltic Sea, and, of course, dipped our toes in the water. We went to an Armenian restaurant for lunch. Our journey through the Baltic continued in Tallinn, which you can read about in the next issue of Globetrotter!