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Miracles of South India – part I

Tropical paradise in Goa, dreamy landscape in Hampi, and beautiful Kerala Backwaters.

"Whiskey-wine," an Indian man awkwardly ordered drink on the plane to Mumbai. Steward was astonished, repeated the order and poured strange mixture of alcohol. It was travelling for the second time in a wonderful country full of colourful saris, fragrant spices, holy cows, mad drivers and unbearable dirt. However, this was the first time I noticed how big of a problem is alcoholism in India. 

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Drinking in public places is prohibited, but without any problem you meet intoxicated Indians on the street. No matter what Hinduism requires after work some people can drink a whole bottle of whiskey. Particularly in Goa, a small region in west India, there is an abundance of alcohol as a result of not-so-distant history turns. It is well known that Goa was a hippie’s refuge and a part of hippie spirit has been preserved. But probably not for the right reasons. Although drug possession is an offense, at dusk locals quietly offer hashish, marijuana, cocaine, ecstasy and other recreational drugs. Wild parties are going on on the beaches in the evening. However, use caution, as local residents have reported rapes of young women. But drugs are not the biggest threat at the Arabian Sea. Exciting sea waves that are really appealing on hot days under the palm trees are a hidden trap. The Arabian Sea, with its strong currents and dangerous undertows, claims dozens of lives per year, many of them foreigners who knew how to swim.

10 hours for 400 kilometres

Life in the largely Christian Goa is a peaceful, you cannot avoid dirt even at this seaside paradise, but there are certainly less cows on the streets than in Hindu parts of India. Remains of Portuguese conquerors in the 16th century are still visible, a real eye-catcher are churches, cathedrals and monasteries in Old Goa that boast among palm trees. The easiest way to wander around Goa, which has only 1.5 million inhabitants, is with local buses. All you have to do is go to the main bus station, shout where you want to go and you'll quickly find the right bus. It is true that in India you can bargain for almost everything, but you should never bargain for a ticket as you’ll be thrown out of the bus. Although I prefer to travel by train, a bus ride on local Indian roads is really the greatest experience. At longer distances it is wise to travel at night. Train is comfortable, but a bit more expensive choice. Government buses are really cheap, available at every time, but equipped accordingly to that. I took a night bus from Goa to Hampi (round 400 km). Skilful driver drove the distance in ten hours. What a trip was that! Big holes, fog, rain, no lights, and an infinite number of slow truckers, which is of course necessary to overtake, even in a blind turn. Everything was slowly starting to get on my nerves. On top of everything two passengers got into fight in the back of the bus. Finally I fell asleep and I woke up to a beautiful morning in Hampi.

The elephant of the temple

Unreal and bewitching, the deserted ruins of Hampi dot an unearthly landscape that will leave you spellbound the moment you cast your eyes on it. Among the huge stones has paved the way a lazy river, a source of life of local residents who grow banana trees, rice and some other crops. Hampi does not disappoint purely with its lunar landscape, on a mere 26 square kilometres stretches over 2000 Hindu temples from the 14th century that are under UNESCO protection. The best way to explore the ruins of magnificent temples is by bicycle. Although the trails are well marked, it is still wise to hire a local guide who is familiar with the story about the life of princesses that already had 'medieval' air condition in their palace, bathtub big as a swimming pool and a large barn for twelve elephants. Hampi is a major pit stop on the traveller circuit not only because of specific natural features and countless temples. Life here is slow, the locals are relaxed, smiling, and compared to other major Indian cities far from being intrusive. Wherever you are in this small village, the Virupaksha temple is always visible, as it rises almost 50 meters high in the blue sky. Permanent resident of the temple, beside many naughty monkeys, is elephant Lakshmi that bathes every morning in the nearby river.

More about India in next issue of Globetrotter.

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